The misadventurous pilgrimage to Muktinath - 4
Dr. Varanasi Ramabrahmam
We travelled to Khatmandu via Raxaul by starting on 16th February from Bhimavaram to entrain at Rsjahmundry the Coromandel express to Howrah. I have to present a paper on the comparison of nirguna state of Advaita and soonya state of the Buddhism from cognitive scientific perspective. The two day seminar was being conducted by the Buddhist Studies department of Tribhuvan University, Khatmandu.
As we have the desire of going to Muktinath also, we have done required train reservations on February 2nd leaving travel to Muktinath to be decided after reaching Khatmandu. We got into Howrah-Raxaul express on 17th at 3-45 PM to reach Raxaul.
The God's Grace which protected us when we travelled to Khatmandu via Raxaul through floods has continued this time too. Just in opposite berth to ours in train are travellers one of whom is going to Birganj the border town in Nepal side. His name is Sagar Khandelwal. He has been like our son and helped us thorughly throughout till we reached Birganj and put us up in a sumo in comfortable seats.
We reached Raxaul on time at 9 am., to Raxaul and reached border with him in 10 minutes. Just after crossing the border, sumos are ready waiting for passengers to Khatmandu. It takes 6 hours to reach Khatmandu.
Buses are available to Khatmandu from Birganj but they are available at night only. As we have to wait 12 hours to go by bus at Birganj we ventured to travel by sumo which is immediately available.
But the route is too stressful and strenuous. The drivers are very efficient. The ghat road is full of curves and deep valley on one side throughout. During that travel we reached a place Daurali 3722 feet high and the temperature then was 2 degrees C. The chilliness ist nice to enjoy.
We reached Khatmandu by 4 pm on 18th. As we were familiar to go to Marwadi Seva Samiti accommodation we proceeded there by taxi, sharing the facility with two Indians. Room is available, actually many rooms are available. Rent: Indian Rs. 750/- per night (Rs. 1200/- Nepali rupees). Indian currency is accepted by every one in Nepal. Only 500 and 2000 notes are not accepted publicly. There is a ban on them.
This time I took a connection of Ncell Nepali cell phone connection for communication with our people in India. To enter Nepal our Aadhar card is sufficient. But none checked us while entering or leaving Nepal.
But passport is a must to get cell connection. It is very cheap and comfortable compared to taking international roaming facility through our Indian operators. 1.4 GB data of 1 week duration is got for Nepali rupees 300 only. 1 Nepali rupee =1.6
Indian rupees.
Taking Nepali connection helped us immensely and we are in touch with our people even from remote area, like Jomsom. Muktinath is 25 km from Jomsom.
We inquired how to go to Tribhuvan university. It is nearer and we can go by public transport. We also inquired how to go to Muktinath. One agent told he can take us to Pokhara by bus and then by flight from Pokhara to Jomsom. This alone costs for one Rs. 18,000/- to and fro. We ruled it out. Decided to go to Jomsom by route bus directly and stay there for a day visit Muktinath and return to Khatmandu. Jomsom is 18 hours from Khatmandu by still rugged roads and deep valley on one side with immediate curves very often.
We went to the university next day and my presentation is scheduled for 20th 11 am. On the night of 19th, at around 8-30 we have seen in the internet that regular buses ply from Khatmandu to Jomsom but one has to reserve ticket one day in advance.
We immediately rushed to the travel agent associated with the hotel. What happened next is very interesting and turning point in our pilgrimage to Muktinath.
(To be continued)
The misadventurous pilgrimage to Muktinath - 5
Dr. Varanasi Ramabrahmam
On the night of 19th February at around 8-30 we came to reserve our bus ticket to Jomsom with the travel agent associated with Marwadi Seva Samiti. The agency is closed. When we inquired, we are directed to the person at the counter of the restaurant. He, one Narayan, doubles as travel agent and restaurant owner and is in charge of management of restaurant.
We went to him and asked him to book two tickets to Jomsom as we desire to visit Muktinath.
He said he doesn't know about such a travel to Muktinath by bus. However he said us to wait and contacted his fellow travel agent. That agent informed him that he is sending pilgrims to Muktinath like that in route buses and he has a package for it. When festaurant owner cum agent informed that to us, we are so much relieved and happy. Because we felt we are going to an unknown territory and are unsure of modalities there at Jomsom and Muktinath.
We readily agreed to the package even though it is at a higher side as we desire to visit Muktinath hassle free and with no tension. That action turned out to be very pleasant and convenient to us especially psychologically.
So we paid advance. The package is they will take to Jomsom by route bus (rather we ourselves go without anyone accompanying us); their agent receive us and make arrangements for refreshing and immediately take us to Muktinath by sumo and after having darshan, will bring us back to Jomsom, make arrangements for night stay there and will arrange return tickets at Jomsom put us in the bus back to Khatmandu. But we have to bear the expenses for the permits to enter Jomsom area (600 Indian rupees) and to Muktinath. (Non-Nepalis) have to pay 2000 Indian rupees per one person.
Next day I presented my paper and it received applause. Immediately we rushed to our residence hotel and left for bus stand vacating the accommodation. My taking Ncell Nepali phone connection has been immediately useful.
Through phone we arranged to meet the other agent at Bus stand around 1-30 pm and he would put us in route bus to Jomsom and advise us what to do. He met us at appointed time handed over the bus tickets and some money to be given to their agent at Jomsom to take care of our expenses at Jomsom. He saw our luggage and remarked why you are carrying all this luggage to Jomsom. We said we vacated the lodge and will go to Gorakhpur for further proceeding to Bhimavaram.
Then the agent one Chandradhar made a fantastic suggestion. Why should you come back to Khatmandu, within the same package I will put you in Pokhara a place nearer to Gorakhpur, on your way back from Jomsom and will pay for your stay there. Next day our agent will put you in a bus to border at Sirouli and from
there you can proceed to Gorakhpur. We liked that suggestion and said yes for his proposal after deliberating. There itself we told him we like that proposal and will confirm to his agent at Jomsom next day. He said fine.
The bus journey from Khatmandu to Jomsom is 18 hours for distance of 350 km. We are given front seats and the bus will start at 4 pm. We were advised to buy suitable clothes for Muktinath weather. My wife and I bought good sweaters earlier and now got into the bus.
(To be continued)
The misadventurous pilgrimage to Muktinath - 6
Dr. Varanasi Ramabrahmam
Corona virus almost stopped our travel to Khatmandu and Muktinath. Our sons objected to our travel plans and said that Nepal is a tourist spot and many from China too visit it. Somehow they allowed us to undertake the journey advising us about precautions to be taken and they stressed the need for masks which I faithfully bought at Bhimavaram before starting for Khatmandu.
When got into the route bus to Jomsom we found some travellers with masks. Even in the bus stand some wore masks. Then we are reminded of our masks which I carefully put in the suitcase. But we didn't wear rather forgot to wear.
The bus from Jomsom to Khatmandu is a shorter one to negotiate the the sharp curves on the gaht road and the many climbing a and descents the bus has to do while going to Jomsom. The bus started around 4 pm. It stopped for an hour in the outskirts of Khatmandu because of heavy traffic and traffic jam. The road also is being renovated and constructed. I couldn't sleep much during the journey.
They stopped entouré at one or two places but we didn't take anything. We carried some kharjoora fruits and satisfied with them. The bus crossed the checking point which is at the entering point of Jomsom area. As ours is route bus and it is early morning 3, no checking took place. We reached a place at 7 am and the weather is too chilly. And snow started falling. From that place to Jomsom the road is the bed of Gandaki river. Of the 350 km from Khatmandu to Jomsom roughly 100 km is ghat road. The Gandaki river flows almost throughout Inthe valley below on one side. During night I saw the road made of rocks and no tar road is present. And climbs and descents are too many with the road being not very wide. They are now constructing the tar road on the ghat road and throughout 100 km works are going on.
We reached Jomsom at 9-30 am. The guide received at the bus stop and put us in a house cum hotel with the instruction to refresh and get ready in 20 minutes as it is snowing the path to and from Muktinath, which is around 25 km can have land slides. Weather is too chilly and our winter wear bought at Khatmandu in the eleventh hour came in handy.
Jomsom is a small village with very few houses and all houses double as hotels. The accomodation is so so. Then the guide asked whether we have permit to Muktinath. We replied in the negative. He said people normally take permits at Khatmandu and come here. We can get one there but time is too short. Within 20 minutes the sumo to Muktinath ascent is at the doors of our hotel. We got into the sumo. Already there are Nepalis in the van. We two only are foreigners. As we reached the check point the soldiers did look into
the can but as we are eclipsed by Nepalis and nothing happened.
We started going to Muktinath. The snow is falling moderately. Our winter wear has been sufficient. The van stopped after 2 km the driver declaring a repair. Then they sent word for a replacement vehicle and it took 30 minutes. We got down from the vehicle and roamed in the snow on the road and on sides. All is covered with snow and the Himalayas are seen in their majesty on the two sides high and fully covered with snow. All this is an invigorating experience. We just allowed ourselves drenched in the snow fall.
The replacement vehicle came in 30 minutes and we reached the bottom of Muktinath mountain. Muktinath is 4,300 feet above sea level.
We got down from the vehicle and all around is snow covered surroundings. The snow is falling.
(To be continued).
The misadventurous pilgrimage to Muktinath - 7
Dr. Varanasi Ramabrahmam
When we alighted at the foot of Muktinath hill it is still snowing. The experience is enjoyable. It is a distance of 1.5 km up to the top of the hill where Lord Maha Vishnu has graciously became Muktinatha to shower His compassion and benevolence on us. Muktinath is one of the 108 Divya Desams (holy places) of the Vaishnavite tradition.
It is a pilgrimage place for Buddhists too.
The path to the hill is completely covered with snow and it is snowing too. For a minute our mind became blank. We didn't understand where are we and what we have to do.
Luckily the Nepalese with whom we came in the sumo have been our guides there. I requested them to take care of us till we return to the vehicle after darshan. They graciously and kindly accepted and assured us of taking care of us.
They engaged horses to go up the hill and said they will climb down by walk. We just followed them. Horse ride up the hill for one person costs Indian rupees 300/-. We readily accepted and climbed the horses. Then the ride to the top is 25 minutes to the top. It is really an enlivening experience to ride the horse on the pathless and snow covered surface.
The horses just walked rather climbed with their usual habit. I was coming to one side on the horse frequently. The person accompanying us has to warn me many times. I was just slipping to one side one horse just like that. Everything around is covered with snow. On one side it is a Valley. The high Himalayas are a spectacle on the other side and sround. The snow fall is additional thrill. After 25 minutes of this thrilling ride we reached a place from where we have to climb 150 steps to reach the shrine.
I and my wife have not at all prepared to go to such a snow-filled cold place. It is one of the reasons why I titled this pilgrimage as a misadventurous one. We almost walked on snow as wo only wore chappals and touch of snow gave us numbing experience. After climbing 150 steps everything settled, our body, numbing experience and right from reaching the foot of the hill we didn't feel the weather inconvenient at all. We thoroughly enjoyed the experience. We never felt the cold. We felt rather coolness.
After reaching the shrine we found two water kunds (small tanks) on either side of it. All who come to Muktinath prefer to bathe in these two kunds and also 108 taps rowed around the temple. They start with the taps and end their Divine bath in the two kunds one after the other continuously. We didn't venture that. Just sprinkled water on our heads. We went to the shrine. Just aside of the shrine to its left in front there is a dhun. Pilgrims after the "arduous" in that weather will relax beside the fire. We collected the ash and had the Darshan of the Lord Muktinath.
Lord is with Lakshmi and Saraswati on either side. The vigraham - murti - sculpture is around 3 feet high and is Narayana with sankham, chakram, gada, lotus and four arms. The sculptures of Lakshmi and Saraswati are a bit less higher.
(To be continued)
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